What Size Screws For 1/2 Inch Cement Board

07-thirteen-2013, 04:37 PM

How-do-you-do all,

Remodeling a belatedly 1950s house with lath and plaster walls. I intend to tile effectually the tub up to about seven feet (installing a shower head). I take removed the old board and plaster from around the tub and will install a moisture bulwark (half dozen mil poly sheeting). Earlier I install the poly, I want to fur out the studs to bring the surface of the 1/two inch hardibacker flush with the 3/4 inch lath and plaster construction.

My question / business concern is that with the furring the standard ane five/8 inch hardibacker screws will only penetrate the stud by about 3/four of an inch. Is that as well shallow? If it is too shallow, I didn't see any longer hardibacker screws at my local dwelling house shop.

Suggestions?

Thanks,
Mark

07-thirteen-2013, 04:52 PM

They will piece of work just fine unless the studs are in poor shape.

The normal spiral / nail measurement is to use a fastener double the thickness of the item being held downward. SO technically you could employ a 1" screw, then add on the tapered end of the screw of 1/four" totalling ane 1/four" the longer ones are easier to install.

07-fourteen-2013, 07:thirteen PM

Welcome, Mark.

You want at least 3/4" of your fastener penetrating the wood stud.

My opinion; worth toll charged.

08-02-2013, 02:23 PM

Hardibacker upward, joints taped and thinset applied!

Any advice on dealing with the hardibacker to lath and plaster transition. The transition is flush in a few places, merely because of the varying plaster thicknesses, there are sections of transition where the hardibacker sits up to 1/iv" proud of the plaster.

I plan on running the final row of tile across the transition. I would like to put a slice of border tile above that. I was thinking of filling the gap and smoothing out the plaster with a little fix-all. Would it exist prudent to put a scrap of red baby-sit across the transition to prevent whatsoever h2o penetrating the grout from higher up from getting into the wall (the poly stops at the transition besides)?

Thanks for all your assistance so far.

Marker

08-02-2013, 04:ten PM

Don't know what "set up-all" might be, Mark, but if you're outside the moisture expanse yous tin use pretty much whatever yous like in that joint.

My opinion; worth price charged.

08-02-2013, 04:50 PM

Set up all or set information technology all is the most common joint compound I run into at Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Bu...0#.Ufw22cu9KSN

Any farther suggestions regarding waterproofing the joint? Or is that just overkill?

Thanks,
Marking

08-03-2013, 09:09 PM

Ok, so continuing with my bathroom remodel, I want to add tile to the floor.

I take my 1/iv" hardibacker and a 3/8" tile. It is a get-go flooring raised foundation house (California ranch style). My flooring is plank: 2x6 tongue and groove on 4x6 joists, 4' on middle. The bathroom flooring is virtually 5x5 1/2 feet non including a pocket-sized alcove for the toilet.

I have 1/4" laminate flooring in the hallway, and a 1" gap under the bathroom door (a stained and sealed red oak console door). I really would like to reduce the size of the hardi underpayment equally much equally possible both to minimize the transition and to avoid any modification or shaving of the door. I accept done my homework and I run across that 1/2 to five/eight plywood is recommended everywhere!

Question: if i/2" plywood is the minimum thickness anyone recommends, what are my risks of reducing the thickness to 3/8" or ane/four" or skipping the underpayment and thinsetting the hardibacker to the plank flooring?

I really don't desire to take to shave the lesser of the door!

Mark

08-03-2013, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted past Mark

Whatever further suggestions regarding waterproofing the joint? Or is that just overkill?

Is the joint in the wet area?

The tile industry standard requirement is for a minimum of nominal half-inch plywood over your dimension woods subfloor. For your subfloor the minimum is sufficient, but it'south your house and your floor and your tile and y'all can install information technology any way that makes you comfortable. We can only tell you the correct style according to gimmicky professional standards.

Installing the Hardibacker on your subfloor is likewise in violation of the manufacturer'south recommendations. Again, how you elect to install information technology is up to you.

My opinion; worth cost charged.

08-05-2013, 03:26 PM

I don't like to cut corners, so I judge I am leaning toward planing down the door (pun intended).

I think what I struggle with is an ignorance equally to the necessity for the thick underlayment. With 2x6 t&g subfloor, I tin can't imagine it is a deflection issue. And isn't any thickness of plywood adequate as an isolation layer? The plywood and thinset volition remove any leveling issues (the floor doesn't have any level problems). Tin someone explain the demand for the thicker underlayment?

And to CX, the transition is above the shower head, so yes, it is to a higher place the wet area (if I am agreement what wet area means). But my concern was condensation on the wall might penetrate the grout behind the top tile and so penetrate the wall at the hardibacker to lath and plaster transition. My question was wether my worries are unfounded, and therefor waterproofing the transition was overkill.

Thanks for all the help so far.
Mark

08-05-2013, 10:45 PM

If you call up a thinner plywood will do the job, Mark, utilize it. Your house, your tile, your dinero, eh? Nosotros tin can only tell you what the tile manufacture standards require. That particular requirement is directed at board subflooring, of course, but I can't imagine the requirement existence any unlike just because you have dimension wood subflooring. Actually could even exist worse than the thinner stuff for moving nearly, seems like. Up to you.

I'd waterproof every role of the shower wall that's to be tiled were it mine, only that, likewise, is upwards to you.

My opinion; worth price charged.

08-06-2013, 08:04 PM

Alright, I don't want to have to redo this in a year. I might as well put the ply down at present.

I bought 2 sheets of fifteen/32 Eposure 1 plywood (cd I think). I'yard going to nail information technology downwards with 1 ane/2" electro galvanized roofing nails (they don't say ring shanked, but they do have ridges on the shank).

So I'm going to put some thinset downwards with my 1/four inch notch trowel and screw downward the 1/4" hardibacker with the same 1 five/8" hardibacker screws that I used on the wall.

I would similar to use a 6 inch tile forth the bottom of the wall equally a baseboard. Question: Should I remove the 1 x iv strip of forest at the bottom of the wall and replace it with 1/2" hardibacker or simply thinset the tile directly to the wall?

Then, while I am redguarding the transition, I retrieve I'yard going to merely redguard the whole floor.

Let me know if I'm making whatsoever errors.

Thanks,
Marker

08-06-2013, 11:08 PM

Marker, please do yourownself a favor and return the CD grade plywood and get an exterior glue plywood (Exposure 1 is fine) with no confront of grade lower than C. That would likely exist an AC or BC at your local habitation center.

The 1x4 at the base of your wall does non compute for me at all. Tin yous postal service a photograph of that area?

You actually don't desire to install your tile directly to a sawn lath. Not even for a baseboard installation.

My stance; worth price charged.

07-thirteen-2013, 04:37 PM	#one
Registered User Join Date: Jul 2013 Posts: 9	Screw length for 1/2 inch Hardibacker into stud How-do-you-do all, Remodeling a belatedly 1950s house with lath and plaster walls. I intend to tile effectually the tub up to about seven feet (installing a shower head). I take removed the old board and plaster from around the tub and will install a moisture bulwark (half dozen mil poly sheeting). Earlier I install the poly, I want to fur out the studs to bring the surface of the 1/two inch hardibacker flush with the 3/4 inch lath and plaster construction. My question / business concern is that with the furring the standard ane five/8 inch hardibacker screws will only penetrate the stud by about 3/four of an inch. Is that as well shallow? If it is too shallow, I didn't see any longer hardibacker screws at my local dwelling house shop. Suggestions? Thanks, Mark

08-02-2013, 02:23 PM	#5
Registered User Join Date: Jul 2013 Posts: 9	Hardibacker upward, joints taped and thinset applied! Any advice on dealing with the hardibacker to lath and plaster transition. The transition is flush in a few places, merely because of the varying plaster thicknesses, there are sections of transition where the hardibacker sits up to 1/iv" proud of the plaster. I plan on running the final row of tile across the transition. I would like to put a slice of border tile above that. I was thinking of filling the gap and smoothing out the plaster with a little fix-all. Would it exist prudent to put a scrap of red baby-sit across the transition to prevent whatsoever h2o penetrating the grout from higher up from getting into the wall (the poly stops at the transition besides)? Thanks for all your assistance so far. Marker Attached Images __________________ Marker

08-02-2013, 04:50 PM	#viii
Registered User Join Date: Jul 2013 Posts: 9	Set up all or set information technology all is the most common joint compound I run into at Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Bu...0#.Ufw22cu9KSN Any farther suggestions regarding waterproofing the joint? Or is that just overkill? Thanks, Marking __________________ Mark

08-05-2013, 09:40 AM	#eleven
Amateur Jack of All Trades Join Date: May 2010 Location: Minnesota Posts: two,516	I've cut a agglomeration of doors. Solid ones like yours are no big deal. I similar to wrap the expanse to be cut with blueish record to reduce splintering and protect the finish from the saw guide. After cut, merely sand the edges and seal the new bottom edge. It'due south much easier than dealing with a failed tile chore. __________________ Wendy Blue belt DIYer. Moderately proficient and occasionally useful. Run across my finished master bathroom here.

08-05-2013, 03:26 PM	#12
Registered User Join Appointment: Jul 2013 Posts: ix	I don't like to cut corners, so I judge I am leaning toward planing down the door (pun intended). I think what I struggle with is an ignorance equally to the necessity for the thick underlayment. With 2x6 t&g subfloor, I tin can't imagine it is a deflection issue. And isn't any thickness of plywood adequate as an isolation layer? The plywood and thinset volition remove any leveling issues (the floor doesn't have any level problems). Tin someone explain the demand for the thicker underlayment? And to CX, the transition is above the shower head, so yes, it is to a higher place the wet area (if I am agreement what wet area means). But my concern was condensation on the wall might penetrate the grout behind the top tile and so penetrate the wall at the hardibacker to lath and plaster transition. My question was wether my worries are unfounded, and therefor waterproofing the transition was overkill. Thanks for all the help so far. Mark __________________ Mark

What Size Screws For 1/2 Inch Cement Board

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07-fourteen-2013, 07:thirteen PM	#iv
Moderator emeritus Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Boerne, Texas Posts: 95,083	Welcome, Mark. You want at least 3/4" of your fastener penetrating the wood stud. My opinion; worth toll charged.

08-02-2013, 04:ten PM	#7
Moderator emeritus Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Boerne, Texas Posts: 95,083	Don't know what "set up-all" might be, Mark, but if you're outside the moisture expanse yous tin use pretty much whatever yous like in that joint. My opinion; worth price charged.

08-03-2013, 11:35 PM	#10
Moderator emeritus Bring together Date: Jul 2001 Location: Boerne, Texas Posts: 95,083	Quote: Originally Posted past Mark Whatever further suggestions regarding waterproofing the joint? Or is that just overkill? Is the joint in the wet area? The tile industry standard requirement is for a minimum of nominal half-inch plywood over your dimension woods subfloor. For your subfloor the minimum is sufficient, but it'south your house and your floor and your tile and y'all can install information technology any way that makes you comfortable. We can only tell you the correct style according to gimmicky professional standards. Installing the Hardibacker on your subfloor is likewise in violation of the manufacturer'south recommendations. Again, how you elect to install information technology is up to you. My opinion; worth cost charged.

08-05-2013, 10:45 PM	#13
Moderator emeritus Join Appointment: Jul 2001 Location: Boerne, Texas Posts: 95,083	If you call up a thinner plywood will do the job, Mark, utilize it. Your house, your tile, your dinero, eh? Nosotros tin can only tell you what the tile manufacture standards require. That particular requirement is directed at board subflooring, of course, but I can't imagine the requirement existence any unlike just because you have dimension wood subflooring. Actually could even exist worse than the thinner stuff for moving nearly, seems like. Up to you. I'd waterproof every role of the shower wall that's to be tiled were it mine, only that, likewise, is upwards to you. My opinion; worth price charged.

08-06-2013, 08:04 PM	#14
Registered User Join Date: Jul 2013 Posts: nine	Alright, I don't want to have to redo this in a year. I might as well put the ply down at present. I bought 2 sheets of fifteen/32 Eposure 1 plywood (cd I think). I'yard going to nail information technology downwards with 1 ane/2" electro galvanized roofing nails (they don't say ring shanked, but they do have ridges on the shank). So I'm going to put some thinset downwards with my 1/four inch notch trowel and screw downward the 1/4" hardibacker with the same 1 five/8" hardibacker screws that I used on the wall. I would similar to use a 6 inch tile forth the bottom of the wall equally a baseboard. Question: Should I remove the 1 x iv strip of forest at the bottom of the wall and replace it with 1/2" hardibacker or simply thinset the tile directly to the wall? Then, while I am redguarding the transition, I retrieve I'yard going to merely redguard the whole floor. Let me know if I'm making whatsoever errors. Thanks, Marker __________________ Mark

08-06-2013, 11:08 PM	#15
Moderator emeritus Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Boerne, Texas Posts: 95,083	Marker, please do yourownself a favor and return the CD grade plywood and get an exterior glue plywood (Exposure 1 is fine) with no confront of grade lower than C. That would likely exist an AC or BC at your local habitation center. The 1x4 at the base of your wall does non compute for me at all. Tin yous postal service a photograph of that area? You actually don't desire to install your tile directly to a sawn lath. Not even for a baseboard installation. My stance; worth price charged.

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